| Author |
Message |
Robert Young
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 8:16 am: | |
I figured this would be considered a booting problem, hence why I'm posting it here.
I work for a non-profit org as an intern, and my manager of the IT 'department' took over for someone just three months before. The old guy was vastly under-organized, so I'm going through all hardware/software to inventory. Anyway, we have this Dell Dimension L667s that was labeled 'broken power button'. Outside inspection shows the power button to be okay, but I open the insides and pop off the 'LED panel Assembly', and I see two LEDs, but the actual power switch is indeed missing. I move the computer, and lo, there it is under a card. The computer is a P3, so I wouldn't mind trying to save it. However, I don't know how to connect the severed wires to the button itself.
The actual switch has holes for six pins, arranged like this:
* *
* *
* *
Except two of the pins seem to be missing or broken off, so it looks like this right now:
* *
*
*
I would like to know if anyone knows how to connect the wires to the pins (if those two pins are supposed to be missing), or can help me find this information. I can apparently buy a replacement for the entire assembly for $20, but, being a non-profit, I'd rather use a soldering iron and human ingenuity before shelling out cash.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
Moderator (Es)
Username: Es
Registered: 6-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 8:33 am: | |
The switch repair is easy if you have an VOM with a continuity test, since one side of the switch is still intact you can move (solder) the wires to the two pins next to the spaces of the missing pins. Polarity doesn't matter as this is just a momentary switch. After the wires are soldered to the two pins test your work with the VOM in continuity mode by connecting the leads to corresponding wires for the switch via push pins or small guage paper clips, push the button and if you have continuity or a beep the switch is good and your work is done. |
Moderator (Es)
Username: Es
Registered: 6-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 8:36 am: | |
If the switch is bad, I have a hundred or so of these types of switches with leads already attached and would be happy to mail you one. |
Robert Young
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2004 - 10:02 am: | |
Unfortunatly, we don't have a VOM (volt/ohm meter, correct?).
You would be willing to send us a switch for free? That would really help me out. What about shipping costs? |
Robert Young
| | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2004 - 5:33 am: | |
Ah, nevermind. I was able to cannibalize an old pentium computer for it's switch (it was donated, looks like someone killed a rabbit in it), and I'm going to solder that switch to the lines I already have (I think I've figured out which line is which). Just a question (if you know): Should I put electrical tape around the bare wire once done (and cooled, of course)? |
Moderator (Es)
Username: Es
Registered: 6-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2004 - 7:23 am: | |
Tape is a good idea, especially if you leave alot of bare wire exposed. VOM is volt/ohm meter and is a very handy tool for around 15 to 20 bucks.
If the switch operation doesn't go smoothly and you live in the continental U.S. I'll still send you one (thru the U.S. mail) I'll cover the $1.50 for shipping. |
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